As you may already know, here at Start To Stitch, we’re into sustainability and protecting our beautiful Cornish countryside; as well as trying to globally fight for a more eco-conscious clothing and textiles industry. My personal mantra is: thou shalt not buy anything that can be made thyself. I work on the principle that since I have a big stash of fabrics, there are a lot of things that I can make for myself, instead of having to buy them. When I get to the end of my stash, I try to buy more fabrics mindfully, thinking about where they’re coming from and how they’re made. I am in no way preaching about avoiding shops - if you want to head to the shops and buy yourself some new wardrobe staples, go for it. However, I have to say there is something incredibly satisfying about creating your own clothing. That’s why I teach my beginner and intermediate online sewing course; I want to give people the skills and knowledge necessary to help them create garments and items that they can be proud of, as well as helping to slow the speed of the fast fashion industry, while also helping you feel better about the beautiful body that you have been given!! Sew your own wardrobe. So many items in my wardrobe have been lovingly sewn by me. Very recently myself, and members of our Stitch Sewcial Facebook group joined in with the wonderfully organised #TheSewingWeekender2021 event, hosted by The Fold Line. The event entailed a blissful weekend of sewing and chatting with lovely, lovely people, however, as a result, my studio is now full of scraps of fabric that are just crying out to be turned into something practical and beautiful! Create something brand new out of your leftover fabric. If, like me, you find that your scrap fabric box is often overflowing, this is definitely the blog post for you. Often we’re left with pieces of fabric that are too small to create new garments for ourselves out of, but that doesn’t mean they’re totally useless. With a little imagination and some clever stitching, it’s possible to turn your scraps into something beautiful and practical that can be used in and around your home. Practical items to make from scrap fabric: Below is a collection of sewing projects that can be created using scraps of fabric. In honour of remaining sustainable, we’ve kept the list as practical as possible - there’s no point creating something with leftover fabric that you’ll never actually use. Our categories include health and beauty items, such as facemasks and scrunchies, items for around the home, children’s items, and sewing related goodies. Of course, there are hundreds, if not thousands, of possibilities when it comes to repurposing fabric scraps, so these are only a few ideas to help get you started. Health & Beauty Reusable makeup remover wipes Twist headbands Reusable panty liners Hand sanitiser keyring holder Makeup bag / travel makeup bag Glasses case Scrunchies Sleep masks Facemasks Around The Home Colourful bunting Oven mitt Tea cosy Pot holders Reusable kitchen towels Coasters Lavender sachets Christmas stockings Camera strap cover Children’s Items Babies bib Child’s sun hat Baby headbands Patchwork quilts Doll/Teddy clothes Sewing Related Needle holder Pin cushion Arty Ideas For Scrap Fabrics There are so many fun ways to use scraps of fabric up. Recently, over on the Stitch Sewcial Facebook group, we had a member who helped her children with their school homework; they ended up creating beautiful collages with scraps of fabrics and the results were absolutely stunning. If you're looking for some free tutorials I have also compiled a Pinterest board for you here! If you fancy having a go at some more fun and practical makes, check out some of the free patterns we offer on our website: Start To Stitch Twist Headband Pattern, the Start To Stitch Face Covering Pattern, and the free Start To Stitch bunting pattern. We also offer beginner and intermediate courses that are hosted online with video tuition. Struggling with your machine? Head over to the Start To Stitch YouTube channel, where we have a variety of video tutorials designed to help you overcome some of the most common sewing machine issues, such as How To Change A Needle On Your Sewing Machine, and How To Wind A Bobbin Up On Your Sewing Machine.
0 Comments
The humble scrunchie was a massive fashion trend in 2020, and it seems that they’ve not lost their appeal in 2021 either. Scrunchies are relatively cheap to buy, of course, but why contribute to the fast fashion industry when you can so easily make your own?
Scrunchies are the perfect project for sewing beginners Honestly, sewing your own scrunchies is probably one of the easiest sewing projects around, which makes it an absolutely perfect place for beginners to start. You only need a small amount of fabric - you can even use scrap fabric (link to how to use fabric scraps post) - some elastic, a safety pin, and your trusty sewing machine. Looking for more beginners projects? At Start To Stitch, we want to share our love of sewing with as many people as possible. That’s why we offer FREE sewing patterns that are great for beginners. Once you’ve mastered the scrunchie, how about trying your hand at our Start To Stitch Free Bunting tutorial, our Free Facemask tutorial, or our free Twist Headband Tutorial? Once you’re comfortable with these projects, you might find that you want to take your sewing to the next level. We offer beginner and intermediate online sewing courses. In each course, you’ll learn new techniques and troubleshoot common issues, as well as create wonderful handmade items. Both courses are held through a dedicated Facebook Group, with detailed video tutorials. Live video support and weekly tutoring calls are also included as part of the course, meaning that support and encouragement is always only a click away. Head to our Online Courses page for more information. How To Make Your Own Scrunchies. First things first, gather your materials and tools. To make your own scrunchies, you will need:
How to make scrunchies, a step-by-step guide: Firstly, you need to measure and cut your fabric to 22 inches x 3 1/2 inches. Next, measure your elastic out, you’ll need 9 inches. Fold your fabric in half so that the underside of the fabric is facing you, then pin to hold it in place. On one end, fold the fabric back 1/2 inch and secure with a pin. Stitch the outer edges together with a 1/4 inch seam to create a tube. Pop your safety pin in the edge that you folded over and use it to help you turn the fabric right side out by passing it through the tube and pulling it out at the other end. Press the seam using an iron and then attach your safety pin to the end of your elastic. Use the safety pin to help you thread the elastic through the fabric tube, ensuring that on either side you can still hold the elastic. Scrunch up your fabric and tighten the elastic slightly before tying off with a knot, alternatively you tighten your elastic slightly and then stitch the ends together. If you have chosen to tie a knot, rotate it so that it sits under the fabric. Tuck the raw edge into the folded edge and then stitch down the join and you’re done! Practise makes perfect! If you’re very new to sewing, this project might take around half an hour to complete. Make sure you double check your measurements before cutting and don’t feel disheartened if you go wrong somewhere! Stitches can be removed using a seam ripper, so don’t give up if at first you don’t succeed. Once you’ve mastered the art of making scrunchies, you’ll be able to make them in just a few minutes. Homemade scrunchies are a great way to use up scrap fabrics (scrap fabric link again OR sew slow 2020 fashion post etc) that you may have lying around, they also make great gifts. Let me know how you got on! Sewists of all levels are invited to join my free online community of friendly, helpful people who love to sew. Pop over to our Facebook group, Stitch Sewcial and introduce yourself - I would LOVE to see your take on this tutorial, so please post a picture and let us know how you got on! Stitch Sewcial is also a great place to ask for advice, seek new patterns, and natter away with like-minded people. If this sounds like something you’d benefit from on your sewing journey, please head on over and introduce yourself. After you’ve chosen the right sewing machine for you, you’ll need to start thinking about the type of fabrics you’re planning to use, which will then help you to figure out the type of needle that is best suited for your needs. Your sewing machine will most likely have had an assorted pack of needles included in the box, however, if not, they’re commonly available in craft stores and online sites such as Amazon. Domestic sewing machine needles are standardised, so there’s generally no need to worry about whether or not the brand you’ve chosen will fit your machine. If a needle is made for an industrial machine it will be listed for industrial machines and should be avoided. JOIN MY FREE SEWING COMMUNITY OVER ON FACEBOOK! Stitch Sewcial is a friendly Facebook Group filled with helpful members who are always on hand to support you and offer advice. Feel free to ask any questions, share your projects and celebrate your sewing accomplishments! Sewists of all levels are welcome, so pop over and introduce yourself. To find out more about choosing the correct sewing machine needle for you, keep reading! |
There’s nothing worse than pouring hours of labour into cutting, sewing, and lovingly creating yourself a new item of clothing, only to find that after all that...it doesn’t fit. It is an incredibly disheartening feeling and one that I hope to help you avoid by teaching you exactly how to measure your body for sewing patterns in this blog post. |
What equipment do you need to measure yourself for sewing patterns?
However, it’s possible to do it yourself by using a full length mirror to check you’re measuring the fullest part of your body.
Tips and tricks to guarantee an accurate body measurement.
- Strip yourself of all bulky clothing. Ideally, you want to be wearing just your underwear. Measuring over clothes will add extra inches to your overall measurements and cause your finished garment to be baggy and ill fitting.
- Hold the tape snug, but not tight. The tape should go around your body without digging into your skin. You should be able to put a finger between the tape and your skin, but no more than that.
- Stand up straight and don’t breathe in.
- Don’t get caught up with the numbers - they’re there as simple tools to help you make the best garment possible. Two people can have the same measurements and will look completely different!
How to measure your body for sewing patterns
Waist:Your waist is the smallest part of your torso, where the body bends. Wrap the tape measure around yourself and have a little wiggle from side to side, this will help you find the ideal spot. Once again check that the tape measure stays flat and horizontal the entire way around your body.
Hips:Hip measurements are not necessarily taken where you’d think they ought to be. Most people assume that to measure this area you must measure where the bones of your hips are. However, this is often not the case. You need to measure the widest part of the area, and that often means measuring around your bottom. It helps to stand sideways in front of a mirror to make sure you’re measuring the widest part.
Additional body measurements you may wish to record
- Upper Bust: measure above the bust and just under your armpits.
- Upper Hip: measured around 2-3” below your waist. Used for trousers and skirts that are worn at waist height.
- Neck: measure around your neck above your collarbone. Useful for tops with collars, such as shirts and polo tops.
- Shoulders: measure from the point where your shoulder meets your neck, to the top edge of your shoulder. Often people have wider or more narrow shoulders than the measurements in your pattern allow for, so knowing this measurement is great if you want to ensure a better fit.
- Arm: measure the full length of your arm from the top edge of your shoulder, all the way to your wrist. Arm measurements are useful for sleeve and cuff alterations.
- Wrist: measure around your wrist to just above your hand. It’s useful to have someone else around to help you with this one as it’s quite tricky. Useful for making changes to sleeve hems and cuffs.
- Front bodice: measure from your clavicle to your waist, via the centre front of your body. Avoid your bust.
- Back bodice: measure from the nape of your neck to your waist down the centre back of your body.
- Waist to knee: measure from your natural waist to just above your knee, remembering to add on seam allowance for the hem. Useful for altering the length of shorts and skirts.
- Inside leg: measure from your crotch to your ankle and remember to include the measurements for a seam allowance.
- Waist to ankle: measure from your waist to your ankle, remember to add on measurements for your seam allowance.
What to do next?
Start To Stitch Freebies
Start to Stitch Courses
As your confidence grows and your love for sewing blossoms, you may wish to take your sewing to the next step. Here at Start To Stitch, we are proud to offer excellent valued courses for Beginners and Intermediate sewists. In each course, you’ll learn new techniques and troubleshoot common issues, as well as create wonderful handmade items. Both courses are held through a dedicated Facebook Group, with detailed video tutorials. Live video support and weekly tutoring calls are also included as part of the course, meaning that support and encouragement is always only a click away. Head to our Online Courses page for more information. |
As well as hosting Beginner and Intermediate Sewing online courses, I also run workshops and evening courses. Feel free to view our course page if you’re interested in finding out more information on the type of tuition I can offer you. I’m experienced in teaching beginners everything they need to know about sewing, and often find that terminology queries arise on my social media channels, and the Stitch Sewcial Facebook Group.
Getting started with sewing is an exciting and rewarding experience, so let’s go through the A-Z of basic terminology you’re likely to come across as a beginner sewist.
Note: This glossary has been written for beginners!
Applique:
Sewing a piece of fabric on top of another layer of fabric, so that they seamlessly look as one. The layer that you’re applying on top is sometimes folded slightly at the edges to create a clean look, or a satin stitch is used to completely cover the raw edge of the piece being appliqued.
B
Back-tack / back-stitch:
This stitch is used at the beginning and end of a sewing machine seam to anchor the thread in place. It refers to adding a couple of extra stitches backwards and forwards and can also be referred to as back tracking. Back-stitching can also refer to a type of embroidery stitch.
Baste or basting-stitch (also known as tacking):
Temporary stitching used to hold fabric in place; this is removed when your permanent sewing is done. Can be done by hand or sewing machine.
Bias:
Diagonal cross-grain of the fabric at 45 degrees; the area of fabric that has the most stretch.
Bias binding:
Narrow strips of fabric that are cut on the bias of the fabric at 45 degrees; the area of fabric that has the most stretch. This makes a tape that can be used to bind or face curved areas of your make.
Bobbin:
A plastic or metal spool that you wind thread around. It goes into the bottom of your sewing machine to feed a line of thread beneath the needle and must be inserted and wound up properly.
Bodkin:
A long, flat, needle-like tool with a blunt end that is used to thread elastic, ribbon and other materials through casing. We sell some lovely, handmade wooden bodkins in our Start To Stitch shop.
Buttonhole:
A small cut in the fabric that’s bound with small stitching. The hole is just big enough to allow a button to pass through it.
C
Casing:
A folded over edge in a garment, usually around the waist. Used to enclose a way of adjusting the fit of the garment, such as using a draw string.
Charm Square:
Precut 5″ squares pieces of fabric used for patchwork and other sewing projects.
D
Darning:
Repair a hole in clothing without using a patch.
Double-fold hem:
A hem that’s folded once to enclose the raw edge of the fabric, then folded again for the hem allowance.
Drafting:
Creating a sewing pattern based on body measurements.
E
Ease:
A way of sewing a length of fabric into a bit of a smaller space without resulting in gathers or puckers.
Also – the amount of space in a garment to enable it to fit the body better.
Edging:Trims or decorative needlework that is used on the edge of the fabric.
Embellishment:
A decorative item added to a craft project for aesthetic reasons; includes beads, buttons, patches etc.
Eyelet:
Small holes are cut out in the fabric, then finished with an embellishment of thread around the opening.
F
Fastener:
The method of fastening two separate bits of fabric together, such as zippers or buttons.
Facing:
A piece of fabric that is stitched to an opening such as a neckline, armhole or hem, on the inside of the garment. It stabilises this area and ensures a smooth fit and finish.
Fat Quarter:
As the name suggests, a fat quarter is a quarter of a metre of fabric but instead of being a strip cut on a linear length, it is a square (and because its a US measurement for quilting measures 18×22. It’s often used for patchwork and other crafting projects. Here’s a YouTube explanation that delves into what a fat quarter is and how it’s measured.
Feed dog:
Metal teeth like ridges that help to push the fabric along as you sew.
Fold line:
This refers to the fold in the centerfold or along the grain of your fabric. Many pattern pieces are placed on the fold line for cutting out.
Foot Pedal:
The part of a sewing machine that controls the speed at which the needle enters the fabric, and therefore the speed at which you sew. It is controlled by your foot and usually attaches to the sewing machine via a cable.
French seam:
A seam often used on delicate and sheer fabrics that helps to hide any raw edges in a neat double fold. Seam allowances are enclosed in this type of fold.
G
Gather:
Running a thread along the fabric and then bunching the fabric up along the thread to create a ruffle a frill or the top of a puffed sleeve or gathered skirt at a waistband
Grain / Grain line :
The true grain runs parallel to the selvedge, and is visible in a woven fabric by looking closely at the threads - the warp threads denote the true grain. Pattern pieces are generally laid along the grain line, and this direction is shown on them by a double headed arrow
The cross grain can also be used in place of the true grain on some stable woven fabrics - this is found at 90 degrees to the selvedge and can be spotting by following the weft threads from side to side of the woven cloth.
Because some cloth is woven slightly wonky - it is always best as a beginner to focus on the true grain only to ensure your makes hang well and are as easy as possible to sew.
H
Hand finishing:
Finishing the last details of your garment or sewing project by hand, as opposed to using a sewing machine.
Hand wheel (also known as balance wheel):
Use the hand wheel on the edge of your sewing machine to adjust the height of your needle.
Hem:
The edge of the garment or fabric project that is folded over and sown under in order to keep the raw edges from fraying and unravelling.
I
Interfacing:
Interfacing is used to stabilise areas of a garment such as necklines, facings and zip insertions. It is a material used as a secondary layer of fabric in order and adds more stability and thickness to a garment. It can be stitched in, or ironed on ( fusible )
L
Ladder stitch:
A hand stitch used to close a seam invisibly. Use commonly to close gaps after you have pulled an item through to the right side.
Layout or lay:
The optimal layout refers to laying the patterns on your fabric in a way that ensures you do not create too much waste fabric, remain on grain, and ensure that the decorative pattern or nap of your fabric is in the same direction on all of your cut pieces.
Lining:
An inner layer of fabric underneath a top layer, often used in garment making to reduce friction ( to make things hang better ) and to hide all the inner workings of the make.
M
Motif:
A dominant design element, usually ironed, embroidered or stitched on.
N
Nap:
This term is used when dealing with fabrics that have a pile, such as velvet and corduroy. It’s important to cut these fabrics with the pile running in the same directions as the fabric’s hue changes depending on the way it is rubbed.
Notches:
Small indents, usually diamonds or triangles, that are printed on the cutting line of a pattern, on the seam allowance. This indicates where the seams should meet, or another pattern piece should fit.
Notions:
All the other items that you use while creating sewing projects - things along the lines of buttons, hooks, and elastic.
O
Overlocker:
A specialised sewing machine that trims and neatens the edge of fabrics.
P
Pattern weight:
A weight that’s used to keep paper patterns in place, rather than using pins. Commonly used in combination with a rotary cutter and cutting mat
Piping:
A decorative finish where a piece of cord is encased in a piece of bias binding and stitched into a seam so that on the wrapped cord is visible. Usually used on homesown items such as cushions, and also on garments.
Pivot:
To leave the needle in the fabric, raise the presser foot, and turn the fabric at a 45-degree angle. Then lower the presser foot and start sewing. Used to sew square seams.
Pleats:
Pleats are folds in fabric that add to fullness, and reduce a long width of fabric into a shorted length to attach to a waistband or sleeve head for example. There are different varieties of pleats, and these depend on the style and fitting of the garment you’re making.
Presser foot:
Holds the fabric in place as you sew with your sewing machine.
R
Raw edge:
The unfinished edge of fabric, after cutting before you have overlocked, or hemmed.
Right side:
The right side of the fabric is usually the design side. There are instances of fabric with no right or wrong side visible, or you may choose to use the reverse of your fabric to face out on your garment and so the determination and appropriate markings are then made by the person doing the pattern cutting and sewing.
Rotary cutter:
A tool used for cutting fabric quickly and easily. It can cut through several layers of fabric at once. It is a circular wheel / blade attached to handle which you roll along your fabric to slice through - you will always need a cutting mat to prevent damage to your table!
S
Seam allowance:
The amount of fabric which is between the edge and the seam. In older patterns this is ⅝ of an inch. More modern patterns tend to leave 1cm unless extra is required for fitting or french seams.
Seam:
Where two pieces of fabric have been sown together.
Seam Ripper:
A tool used to rip seams from the fabric and undo stitches previously made.
Selvedge:
The finished edge on either side of your cut cloth
Spool pin:
Keeps the spool of thread in place so the thread can be fed through your sewing machine.
Stay Stitch:
Sewing a line of straight stitch along the curved areas of a cut pattern piece before assembling into a seam, in order to stabilise and prevent distortion.
Stitch Length:
The length of your machined stitches. In general, regular sewing is made with stitches that are about 3-4 mm and basting/gathering/bunching/sleeve easing stitches are about 5mm.
Stitch Width:
The width of your machined stitches. A regular straight stitch has no stitch width because the needle is in a stationary position and does not move from side to side.
When you make a zig-zag stitch, the needle moves left to right as well as up and down, and the width is the distance in mm of needle drops left to right. A good zig-zag stitch for stretch top stitching is 2.5mm length and 2.5mm width.
Straight Stitch:
The stitch setting on your machine that looks like a straight line. The needle creates this by puncturing the fabric up and down on the same spot as the fabric is pushed through the machine by the feed dogs.
T
Thread cutter:
A sharp tool on the edge of your sewing machine for cutting excess thread.
W
Wadding:
Material, such as cotton or wool, that is used for filling items.
Warp:
The threads that travel along the width of your fabric from selvedge to selvedge
Weft:
The threads that travel along the length of your fabric, running parallel with the selvedge
Wrong side:
The opposite side of the fabric to the side you have chosen to face out
Z
Zig-zag Stitch:
The stitch setting on your machine that looks like a zig-zag line. The needle creates this by puncturing the fabric up as well as moving from left to right as the fabric is pushed through the machine by the feed dogs.
Zipper:
A zip is constructed from two tapes, usually attached at the bottom, each with a row of tiny ‘teeth’ that interlock when the tapes are pulled through a ‘pull’
Invisible zips are designed so that the seam covers up the teeth mechanism and the zipper can be concealed.
Open-ended zips still have the 2 parallel rows of teeth, however the ends are not joined. Instead they meet in a small box and pin mechanism, allowing you to separate two parts entirely - this is often found in jackets and coats.
After you acquire the sewing supplies for beginners listed below, you’re ready to begin your journey. Once you’ve become familiar with your sewing supplies and equipment, the world truly is your oyster. Free beginner projects, such as our Start To Stitch Bunting, Start To Stitch Free Twist Headband, or the ever practical Start To Stitch free Face Covering pattern are all great for sewists who are just starting out and wanting to create something practical and pretty.
Sewing Supplies For Beginners
SEWING MACHINE
A sewing machine is an absolute must have if you want to start sewing! Sewing machines enable you to create amazing handmade items and garments with excellent precision, durability, and professionalism. Your sewing machine will be a great investment, so make sure to do your research before purchasing. We’ve written a comprehensive guide to buying the right sewing machine for you - read it here: 6 Things To Look For When Buying A New Sewing Machine. |
Needles
Bobbins
Good Quality ThreadThread is what’s going to hold your hairbands, garments, cushion covers, or even your mug warmers together, so it’s important to get a good quality collection of thread in a variety of colours. Gutermann is the best quality - a strong polyester thread that won’t snap or break. Moon is a good alternative but some machines don’t respond to it well. |
ScissorsFabric scissors are sharp! In order to cut through a variety of fabrics, they’re much sharper than your everyday scissors. It’s a good idea to have both ordinary scissors on hand for cutting templates out, and also fabric scissors for your fabrics. Keep in mind that using your fabric scissors on anything but fabric will dull them very easily and quickly. |
Marking Tools
Clear Rulers
Cutting MatSave your desk for being destroyed when cutting fabrics with either scissors or a cutting tool by investing in a good cutting mat. Some cutting mats are self healing, which is a huge bonus. They come with measurements up the sides, and basically just make your life when sewing so much easier. |
Seam Ripper
Iron & Ironing Board
FabricObviously you’ll need a selection of fabrics to start off with! A lot of beginner sewists tend to use old garments or old bedding sets that are no longer needed. It’s great to create new items of clothing from upcycled fabric, however if that’s not possible, there are plenty of stores and online shops that stock gorgeous fabrics. |
Inspecting the fabric closely may give you a few clues as to its quality and fibre makeup, however, oftentimes this is not enough. For a more conclusive identification, you can conduct what is commonly referred to as a ‘fabric burn test’. This simple, easy test will give you the information you need to more accurately identify your fabric. It’s a relatively straightforward test to carry out and can be done at home in a well ventilated area.
In this blog post, I will tell you how to carry out a fabric burn test safely and help you to compare your results in order to identify your fabric and fibres. I’ve also provided a handy fabric burn chart printable that is 100% free and makes the perfect accompaniment for your studio or work space. If you’re ready to get started - read on!
What is a fabric burn test?
It’s worth nothing that some fabrics are made of a blend of fibres which can make burn tests an unreliable way of identifying fibre content. Some fabrics also have chemical finishings applied to them which can also make the test unreliable.
How To Conduct A Fabric Burn Test
Equipment: Gather the following tools and equipment to help you carry out the test.
- Scissors
- Fabric
- A flame proof container (tin bucket or ash tray, for example)
- Water to extinguish flames
- A small flame - a lighter or long matches are suggested
- Long tweezers to hold the fabric with
Cut a small but workable amount of fabric; a good amount is around 2 square inches. Next, place the fabric into a flame proof container and set one corner on fire. You need to then pay attention to the:
- odour of the smoke
- colour of the smoke
- the speed at which the fabric burns/melts
- the ash or beading that’s left
Once you have your findings, use the chart below to help you identify the fibres. (You can download this in full resolution from our resources section here)
And don't forget if you have any questions on any aspect of sewing you can drop into my Free facebook group Stitch Sewcial and call for help and I'll be happy to answer!
Author
Sewing. pattern cutting, teaching, tea and Jelly Babies!
Categories
All
2020 Challenge
Beginner Sewing Projects
Beginners Sewing
Body Dysmorphia
Bunting
Burn Test
Chambray
Christmas Stocking
Classes
Cloth Face Covering
Cocoon Dress
Cornwall Scrubs
Courses
Covid 19
Cutting
Declutter
Equipment
Free Pattern
Free Patterns
GBSB Season 8
General
#getsetsew
Gifts
Gifts For Men
Glossary
Great British Sewing Bee
Guthrie Ghani
Handmade Wardrobe
Kernow Sewcial
Kids Dress Up Cape
Learn
Learning To Sew
Machine Maintenance
Mental Health
My Fabrics
My Me Made Wardrobe
Nadia Arbach
Needles
Online Courses
Organisation
Pattern Review
Pdf Patterns
Peg Bag
Peplum Top
Peppermint Magazine
Personal
Presser Feet
Ready To Wear
Sapporo Coat
Scrap Busting
Seasalt
Sewing 101
Sewing For Men
Sew Slow
Simple Sew
Slow Fashion
Supplies
Sustainable Textiles
Tutorials
Twist Headband
Video Tutorial
Zadie Jumpsuit
Archives
December 2023
November 2023
October 2023
September 2023
August 2023
April 2023
March 2023
February 2023
January 2023
December 2022
November 2022
September 2022
August 2022
July 2022
June 2022
May 2022
April 2022
March 2022
February 2022
January 2022
November 2021
October 2021
September 2021
July 2021
June 2021
May 2021
March 2021
November 2020
October 2020
September 2020
August 2020
July 2020
June 2020
May 2020
April 2020
February 2020
October 2019