How To Choose The Right Sewing Machine Needle

After you’ve chosen the right sewing machine for you, you’ll need to start thinking about the type of fabrics you’re planning to use, which will then help you to figure out the type of needle that is best suited for your needs. 

Your sewing machine will most likely have had an assorted pack of needles included in the box, however, if not, they’re commonly available in craft stores and online sites such as Amazon. Domestic sewing machine needles are standardised, so there’s generally no need to worry about whether or not the brand you’ve chosen will fit your machine.

If a needle is made for an industrial machine it will be listed for industrial machines and should be avoided.

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​To find out more about choosing the correct sewing machine needle for you, keep reading!

What do all the numbers mean?

In the UK and Europe, sewing machine needles range in sizes from 60 to 120, which refers to the diameter of the shaft just above the eye. US sewists measure the size of their needles differently; their system ranges from 8 to 19 and are usually paired with the European size, for example 60/8. The important thing to remember is: the bigger the number, the bigger the needle. As 60/8 is the lowest number, this means it’s a small needle that is ideal for lightweight fabrics. 

There are various types of needle points to consider...

When looking at your needle packs, you’ll notice they’re usually named after the point of the needle. Using needles with different tips can help sewists achieve a more ‘professional’ look when creating their pieces.

Universal needles work for most fabrics, which is fantastic if you’re a beginner looking to try your hand at making something quick and easy, such as our Start To Stitch Bunting, or the ever practical Start To Stitch Facemask. 

Ballpoint needles have a rounded tip, which works by pushing the fabric fibres apart. This makes ballpoint needles ideal for working on knit fabrics as it prevents the fabric of laddering. 

Stretch needles have a scarf which allows extra room for the hook to pass closely and prevent skipped stitches. Stretch needles are ideal for fabrics such as Lycra, silk jersey, Spandex, and any other elasticated stretch fabrics.

Sharps needles are designed to work with several layers of fabric and wadding, and are therefore often used by quilters. These needles have a strong shaft which helps to prevent bent and broken needles when working with several layers of fabric. The sharp point penetrates the fabric smoothly, producing smooth, even stitches and buttonholes.

Quilting needles also have a reinforced shaft, however they are significantly shorter than sharps needles. This helps quilters to quickly achieve even stitching - beginner quilters may find small needles easier to use at first, whereas more experienced quilters may prefer the larger needle options.

Special fabrics such as denim and leather require needles specifically produced for that fabric and will be labeled accordingly. 

How thick is your fabric?

As mentioned earlier, 60/8 needles are great for lightweight fabrics that flow freely, such as organdy. For a medium weight fabric like linen or Lycra, a 70/10 or an 80/12 needle works well. For heavier fabrics, including denim, upholstery and canvas, a 90/14 or 100/16 needle will be best suited. Finally, the 110/18 and 120/19 needles can be used for extremely heavy fabrics.


Finally, match your needle to your thread.

The thread you’re using needles to easily pass through the eye of the needle and fit snugly. Thick thread won’t fit through the eye of a small needle, so you’ll need to go up in size to find a needle that you can thread smoothly. Thread weights work in the opposite way to needle sizes, with the higher numbers being thinner and the lowest numbers being the thickest threads.

For a full explanation and some examples of the different types of needle - check out this video below! 

​Are you ready to take your sewing to the next level?

As your confidence grows and your love for sewing blossoms, you may wish to take your sewing to the next step. Here at Start To Stitch,we are proud to offer excellent valued courses for Beginners and Intermediate sewists.

In each course, you’ll learn new techniques and troubleshoot common issues, as well as create wonderful handmade items. Both courses are held through a dedicated Facebook Group, with detailed video tutorials. Live video support and weekly tutoring calls are also included as part of the course, meaning that support and encouragement is always only a click away.

Head to our Online Courses page for more information. ​