A fabric burn test is, as the name suggests, a test in which you burn a small part of fabric; by burning the fabric and observing the flame, the smell, and the ashes, you’re able to better understand what fibres your fabric is made from. Once you know whether your fibres are natural or synthetic, you’re able to make informed decisions when working with it. 

It’s worth nothing that some fabrics are made of a blend of fibres which can make burn tests an unreliable way of identifying fibre content. Some fabrics also have chemical finishings applied to them which can also make the test unreliable. 
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Is clutter taking over your sewing space? You can have lots of great ideas and sewing projects you want to complete, but if you’ve got clutter blocking you from working on your projects it can be a challenge to get things done.

As a professional declutterer (and quilter and sewist!) who works with creative women who love to sew, I’ve created a unique framework that explains why clutter accumulates in our sewing rooms (I’m no exception! I still have clutter build-up from time to time, although I’ve learned how to keep it to a minimum). My framework is based on the habits and behaviours that trigger the accumulation of clutter. My philosophy is that in order to clear the clutter, you need to understand HOW and WHY it got there. In my experience, most quilters and sewists will be familiar with at least two or three of the Seven Clutter Triggers. Which of them might be affecting your sewing room?
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You often bring extra items into your space – items that eventually become clutter because you can’t use them fast enough. Buying tools and notions because they’re on special offer or buying fabrics that appeal to you (without having a project in mind for them) can lead to this kind of clutter.
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Combat overbuying by practicing CONSCIOUS SPENDING. Set a budget, only shop for fabric when you know you’ll use your purchases right away, and remember that sales and special offers happen all year round so if you miss one there will be another one coming soon! Spend your money consciously and bring in only the things you know you need right now.
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​You may tend to over inflate the value of what you have, thinking it’s worth more to you than it actually is. You’re reluctant to let go of fabrics or tools that you secretly don’t care much about, because they ‘might come in handy one day’ or they’re ‘perfectly good’. Scarcity thinking comes from us unconsciously repeating a story about lack that we’ve learned sometime in our life – either from our own experience or our family’s experiences.
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Work on transforming scarcity thinking into an ABUNDANCE MINDSET. Look around at all the wonderful items that you have in your sewing room that you actually use! Those tools are serving you well and you love them – you have abundance in your life. Now take a look at those ‘someday’ items – are they really as valuable as the ones you use all the time? If not, let them go.
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​​Sometimes we treat things as a substitute for a person that’s dear to us (like a sewing machine passed down by a loved one), or a happy memory of a past time in our life (like fabric we might have picked up on a fabulous holiday, or a garment pattern that used to look great on us but no longer is our size or style). If you’re reluctant to let go of these sentimental items, you may end up storing items in your sewing room that you would never actually use - but sometimes it feels too hard to let them go.

My suggestion is to LOOK TO THE FUTURE. Take a photo of some of those nostalgic items and let them go, and then think about your future projects – the ones you really want to do. If you’ve got real sewing heirlooms, give them an appropriate future by using them as art in your home instead of letting them into your sewing space where they won’t be of use.
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Like many sewists and quilters, you may get requests from family or friends to make them something or teach them how to sew, and you might feel obligated to do so even if you don’t want to. You might also be hanging on to projects or ideas because you feel the duty to ‘finish what you started’ – even if the project no longer appeals to you!

Remember to PUT YOURSELF FIRST. Make sure you prioritize the time to work on projects that bring you joy, rather than doing favours for others or finishing an unwanted project. Find a way to say no to the requests that come in, unless you’re truly happy to do them. And here’s a challenge: look through your sewing projects, find one that is no longer fun and enjoyable for you – and toss it! Make room for what you really love now.
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If you have a less-than-clear sense of your creative identity, you may not really know what types of sewing projects you truly love, and you may accumulate projects that reflect trendy styles or mimic the work of someone you admire – but then end up not finishing them because they’re not quite your style.
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To transform this identity crisis into DEEP SELF-KNOWLEDGE, do some thinking to find out what kind of creative elements you truly love – whether these are colours, styles, types of garments, or other elements. Incorporate them into your next sewing project to boost your creative self-confidence.
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Although you may love and need all the items in your sewing space, they’re not organised in any particular way – so you end up wasting time searching for things and are unsure of what you have.

Restore order by creating HELPFUL SYSTEMS: group items like by like, store them in clear containers, and let go of any multiples of items. Make a note of which supplies you need to top up for specific projects, and – most importantly – create a routine of putting things away as soon as you’ve finished using them.

You have a huge amount of ideas for sewing projects and want to do them all! But you tend to start things and not follow through on finishing them, so you accumulate unfinished projects that eventually lose their appeal because you’ve left them too long.

Conquer overwhelm by creating a MASTER PROJECT LIST: make a list of every sewing project you intend to work on, including current projects, partially-completed projects, and ideas for projects. Then rate each one a scale of 1-5 for excitement level (1 means you don’t like it much; 5 means you can’t wait to start working on it). Cross off everything that only rates a 1 or a 2 and declutter it from your workspace, and from the remaining list pick a maximum of five projects to work on right now. Every time you finish one, bring another up from your list. Prioritising your projects and limiting the number you work on at any one time will stave off the overwhelm.

So, which were your telltale triggers? And how did it feel to let go of some of the items you realised were clutter? By becoming more mindful of your habits and behaviours, you’ll start a huge transformation in both the way your sewing space looks and the way you think about the materials and tools you own.
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Happy creating!

 
First things first - the best advice is always to buy the best that you can afford - because any sewing machine is better than no sewing machine, and because even entry level machines provide decent functionality these days that you can learn to use to your requirements as you grow and develop as a sewist.  Having said that, most people who get the sewing bug will out grow an entry level machine very very quickly - and I would always advice against buying any of the space saving / mini models that are touted for people to start on.  You will be wasting your money.

Ask yourself are you looking make clothes, or quilts? 

​Essentially sewing falls into two camps and each one has a slightly different set of requirements though they aren't mutually exclusive - what I suggest below is for the aspiring garment makers among you, as that is my thing and what I know best! 

Buying second hand...
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I am all for buying second hand in the name of saving the planet and getting more bang for your buck but there are a few things to be aware of if you do this...

1) If you are a new to sewing you need a machine that is reliable and functioning smoothly to assist you as you learn.  Second machines, especially vintage ones, can be extremely temperamental and as an inexperienced sewist you will struggle to know whether the knotty bobbin thread is something you're doing or something mechanically wrong with the machine.

2) Because of this, although you may be saving yourself money, you need to factor in the cost of a service to your purchasing budgets.  Sewing machines, like cars and other machinery seize up if they are not used ( a prime reason for a secondhand sale ) or if they have been used a lot but not looked after.  You have no idea how well a machine has been maintained with its previous owner so getting it serviced once you've purchased it can add £40-70 to your overall budget, but PLEASE do not skip this step as it will ensure whatever money you have invested is protected.

3) Avoid buying second hand vintage unless you know what you're doing and are willing to invest to keep it on the road.  I have many students who come to me with vintage sewing machines who love the look of the them but soon realise they aren't up to muster when it comes to the projects they want to make, and they can cost you a LOT of money to keep going.

Buying second hand can be a brilliant thing to do if you know very specifically which make and model you want - and you have found one that you know has been looked after or isn't that old - unwanted gifts are always a great find - as you can often buy a better, modern model for a second hand price, than you'd have afforded if you were buying new.
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In all honesty this is what I would recommend if you're a total beginner and this is why:

1) you know the machine is working tip top and if it isn't you'll be covered under warranty
2) you can have a chance to try before you buy and have a decent conversation with your retailer about what the functionality it
​3) Modern machines have so much more functionality built into them then vintage or older ones.  As time goes on machine design improves and improves.

You will get more machine for you money with Janome, and although they are still very well built they are more affordable.  It's a little bit like choosing between a BMW or a VW or a Skoda.  They are all pretty good and solid cars, they will do the job, they will just drive differently and some of the functionality and smoothness will vary depending on the make and model. 

The main difference is that if your budget is around or less than £370 you will get a good Janome (The 230DC above retails at around £370), but you won't get close to a Bernina or even a Bernette (the cheapest Bernette doesn't have all the functions I think it should have though it is still a solid machine at around £270).  BUT If you have more than £350 I'd say go for the Bernette's either B37 or B38 and you will have a solid, reliable machine that you can use for life.

If your budget is closer to the £1000 mark, look back at Janome, you will get a lot of functionality!

If you are lucky enough to have over £1000 to spend then go and try some Bernina's and see how they compare in terms of the 'drive'... 

I will admit that I am a die hard Bernina loyalist - I learnt on them, the art schools I trained at always had them in the studios, my career in theatre showed me that pretty much every wardrobe has the Bernina 1001 as its staple machine.  These are basic by the way but solid as an eternal rock.  Forwards, backwards and side to side is all they do, but if you know what you're doing then that's all you need! ​

In many ways increased functionality can make you a lazy sewist - because you have a widget to do something for you, you don't ever learn how and why you can do it without, but in this time poor life, anything that saves time has got to be a blessing. 

What machine do you use?  Have you got loyalty to a particular brand?
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During Lockdown 1 back in the Spring I became a bit obsessed with head bands because of the inevitable 'Lockdown Hair'.  I bought quite a few and wore some of them but I do have an impossibly big head that to me is also a strange shape so I struggle a bit to find something that I like and that suits me, most especially while all the shops were shut! 

Having joined  the fabulous pre-order group for Clarabelle fabrics I saw a few people making them out of Claire's amazing European fabrics so I watched a few tutorials and had a little play, tweaked it all a bit and then found I loved the results!

With Lockdown 2 impending imminently, the timing couldn't have been better because despite managing to get a last minute hair cut, who knows how long it will all last this time, and it's better to be safe than sorry! 

I have made this video tutorial for you to show you how I have done it - and you can download the FREE patterns for both widths of head band here.
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By the way, the beautiful fabrics I use in the video came from Clarabellfabrics.com too.  Claire's selection is totally fabulous and she's a valued member of my sewing community Kernow Sewcial as well as running her own pre-order group too.  If you love mostly stretch fabrics in amazing prints and especially if you like making for the small people in your life (though there is plenty here for adults too) I really recommend you check her out.

The bespoke pattern weights came from Pattern Weights, another awesome local to me Cornish Company run by LOVELY people providing a super service.  If you are a rotary cutter user then check out their varied and beautiful collection of designs.  One day I'd love to design a set for myself !!

I have a history of trauma dating back from a very young age, and as a result have battled daily to function - through eating disorders, depression and a level of anxiety that just sits like a fluttering bird trapped under my sternum sucking all of the joy out of life.  It is almost always there - even and often especially, in what are supposed to be the happiest moments.

​The start of the UK Lockdown was immensely triggering for me & I started my Facebook group  Kernow Sewcial because I knew if I, as someone who spent years in and out of therapy and who was pretty good an functioning effectively these days was finding it hard, others who might be on an earlier stage in their journey to healing, if they'd started at all, would be finding it frightening and  overwhelming.

Much of the time, when people have experienced trauma, their brains respond by creating patterns of behaviour that come in to play when there is a perceived threat. On a very basic level, this is what anxiety is, your body keeping you in high alert to future threats because of the pain it has experienced from past ones. You can see now how the Pandemic, for someone who had experienced this was a major flashing beacon because for the first time in our memory the threat was REAL.

So, Kernow Sewcial was born, in a hurry without my usual prior planning and over thinking, actually on the same day Cornwall Scrubs was born too (it turned out to be a busy month LOL) and I wanted the group to be an uplifting and joyful space where sewists of all skill levels, gender and genre could come together, share their work, ask questions and cheer each other on.  It's important isn't it?  To have someone tell you that something is good and you did well, especially as you're learning... I can't imagine a kid going to school with no one ever telling them that they're getting something right.  It's part of growth mindset - and it's vital to success in life, I feel.

Not many of us live in houses with other people who sew - and our partners and kids are wonderful I am sure, but peer support is a very different kind of support!
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When the GBSB left us, I decided to carry on the momentum with a monthly sewing challenge called Get Set Sew which keeps everyone on their feet and helps push boundaries and learn and develop new skills (though participation is entirely optional of course)

​In my face to face classes the focus is on community and togetherness, jelly babies feature heavily (I'll do a blog post about the jelly babies factor on a later date) to lift it from class-room to community, we sit in a circle, and the group is never more than 6 so that everyone feels they can chip in and chat during the down times.  In the early stages of new motherhood, when I first started teaching, these classes were for me a glimpse of something normal and not baby related, and over time, with students booking back on to other classes, they have become as much about seeing friends and making new ones as they are about the all important income stream.

Covid could have killed my business, and all my face to face teaching has stopped, but thanks to my amazing husband who has more faith in me than I've ever had in myself (work in progress, it's getting better!) and who also happens to be a professional photographer and film-maker (you can find his beautiful film The Yukon Assignment on Amazon Prime) I managed to pivot.  He quite literally got his camera out - told me put some mascara on and we filmed the who beginners and intermediate courses during the toddlers nap time in the lockdown period.  Imposter syndrome and perfectionism would have stopped that happening had we not been in that unique set of circumstances, and I am forever grateful because it has shown me that I have the potential to grow a digital community alongside a face to face one, reach more people, and have a greater impact.

My first beginners class which I'm beta - testing this month has just sold out with 10 days left until we start, and the buzz and vibe in Kernow Sewcial is super lovely.  I came over all soppy yesterday and went live to say thank you to them.  What a team of gorgeous people.

The next pandemic that is going to grip us when Covid is water under the bridge will be our collective mental health : PTSD, stress, anxiety, jobs lost, domestic abuse survivors living with the legacy of a three month lockdown, grief at losing loved ones either from Covid, or from something totally unrelated. Mummies who have given had to navigate pregnancies and births with their partners banned from sharing the journey with them. The list goes on and on and on. Massive life rituals affected by restrictions on our liberty. Funerals being interrupted because a son wants to sit next to his grieving widowed mother to hold her hand and comfort her from Less than a 2m distance.

Trauma is real. It doesn’t have to be war zones or horrendous car accidents. It doesn’t have to be violent and dramatic and cinematic. On a very basic level Trauma occurs when our bodies nervous system is overwhelmed into a fight flight or freeze response, and is flooded with stress hormones.

You can experience all of the drama but if your nervous system is not soothed straight away back into calm, long term damage can occur. If someone gives you a hug, provides you with support and care, if you feel listened to and supported and held and if you are able to understand how to calm yourself and process, then something relatively traumatic for one person can have no long lasting effects in another. This is the basis of Polyvagal Theory ( look it up, it’s flipping changed my LIFE )

No, we haven’t been in a war zone this year. But we have experienced collective trauma, some people soothed and soothing, and others alone and still in a heightened stress response.

I personally have had a year like I’d never have been able to imagine and it has literally brought me to my knees triggering things in me I thought I had long since dealt with.

​I’ve found a new groove now, checked back into therapy and started to do the work again. I have no shame in sharing that, I want to live my best life, and there is still work to do. Life is short and after a HUGE and very painful life lesson this year in putting others above everything else I am using my impending 40th birthday to pull up the draw bridge and work on getting it right before it’s too late. You never know what is around the corner.  I have sewn, boy have I sewn, garments and garments and garments, and it has kept me afloat, but there is no shame in admitting that you need some extra assistance, and asking for it when you do.

So, Be kind, talk to each other about everything. Take the time to listen, put a hand up if you have something that needs saying. The more I talk to people the more I realise we all have a story to share that others can learn from.

You are an incredible human being, you deserve to be ok, to feel safe, to be heard, to share your stories. There are so many places to get help if you need them but I would personally recommend these things (apart from sewing obviously):

Polyvagal theory : look up Irene Lyon and Steven Porges on YouTube - GAME CHANGING
Trauma and the body : read ‘the body keeps the score’
Obviously in Cornwall there’s outlook southwest though CBT didn’t even scrape the surface of my issues it’s hugely helpful for many.

Hypnotherapy totally works and got me through a very traumatic medical procedure without having a nervous implosion - Body and Mind Hypnotherapy

If you have experienced any kind of domestic violence the Women’s Centre in Cornwall offers an incredible programme called Pattern Changing. I think you can self refer. If you aren't where I am most Women's Centre's will offer a version of it.

EFT (EMotional Freedom Technique) is a practical and useful thing to do when you’re triggered into a stress response. There are many qualified folks about.

And talk. Share it. When you offer your story into the universe and you look for an answer, it comes. It really does. I’m living proof of this.

My door is always open, you don’t have to deal with this stuff alone.

And if you fancy taking up a new hobby or meeting others for some sewing fun - join in with the lovely members at Kernow Sewcial, it would be so lovely to have you there xx ​

Overall, it was relatively easy to put together but it was after I thought I'd finished that I started to have problems!! ​

​Earlier this month I hosted a flat pattern cutting workshop for the members of my free facebook group Kernow Sewcial witb Jef Newsam of Spinone clothing.

Jef is an expert pattern cutter and we wanted to provide an intro to patten cutting by working through the instructions for Winifired Aldrich's incredible pattern cutting method for a basic bodice block.

My dressmaking stand - who Jef has christened 'Doris'  is a standard size 12 in old sizing (before we vanity sized) which is slightly small than me in bust and quite a lot in hip, but about right in waist.  I wear a UK size 8 - 10 depending on the shop I am shopping in which gives you an idea about why some of your shop bought patterns may not make up to your usual size and why you must ALWAYS measure your body and look at the finished garment size numbers to work out which size to actually make for you.

We worry about sizing - but in reality it is just numbers.  I will write another post on this more another day.

So I made this pattern in a size 2 which is a size 8 even though my measurements worked for the 'made for' measurements of a size 3 (10 ).

This is because I could see there was a LOT of ease built into the garment and i didn't want it baggy and oversized.  Overall this was the right strategy...

However when I made it up (in a hurry with no toile - slap wrist!!) I  was rather dismayed to find that not only did it protrude flat at the shoulders (leading me to ask if I had slopey shoulders) but it also had a terrible gape around the armhole.

I am so fortunate that we had Jef and that workshop because in looking at the standard bodice block it became clear that the armhole needed to be much tighter (with more angled shoulders) and that this terrible 'make' wasn't as a result of my crap body after all.

I have said that out loud because a lot of my 'stuff' boils down to a self perpetuating inner narrative about my shape being crap - a hang over from a few years of disordered eating and a lot of other stuff besides.  However I know that I am not alone in this.

The reality was that it is actually to do wit the drafting of the pattern and its relationship to my shape, which is a HUGE difference in story! 

Because I had already made it - I sold the problem my sloping the shoulders more, and putting a dart into the arm hold to bust point giving a rather pleasing shape actually, which I am glad about!

A few final points on this pattern...

I think it should be lined.  I am a bit obsessed with lining things because it raises something from good to lovely in terms of fit and hang and is so simple to do.  It allows you to make something that truly feels like a quality garment... I might actually make a lining for this as part of a live in Kernow Sewcial, if I do that I will be sure to share it with you.

Finally - the press studs.  BOY did these drive me to the edge.  I had some sent by my amazing local fabric store Truro Fabrics but partially because I am cack-handed and partially because they required a bit of bulking in the seam, it didn't work out.  I then tried some of the made in China variety on amazon but wasn't convinced by their rust-proof-ness and they came with no instructions and I finally solved it with some heavy duty press studs in antique brass and a fitting tool kit C by Hemline.  Suddenly it all came together very easily.

Overall I am really pleased with this now - it fits nicely and is what I had hoped for.  It could do with pockets, but then couldn't everything!! 

​Have you made this?  How did you find it?

One of the things I cover in Back to Basics  the online sewing course for beginners and refreshers, is how to change a sewing machine needle. 

How often to you change your needle? Did you know you should change it for a fresh one every 3/4 bobbins full?  Or at the start of every new project?

A blunt needle can cause all sorts of issues - including problems with stitches ... when you're troubleshooting a problem with your machine, changing a needle is one of the first things you should do! 

Did you know that when the dressmakers made Kate Middleton's wedding dress they changed their needles every 3 hours? It's so important for precision and optimum use from your machine..

But do you actually know how to change a needle on your own machine?  If not - watch this short video I made to explain it, it's a sample lesson from LEARN TO SEW: Back to Basics, my brand new online course launching 29th October - I hope you find it useful! 

Back to Basics is  beginners and refreshers sewing class covering all your machine basics, how to thread, sew, troubleshoot tension, change a needle, adjust stitch length / width.  You will make 5 completed projects over the course and it will set you up for solo sewing! Work the comfort of your own home on your own machine so you can really get to know it. Detailed instructions, handouts and clear video tutorials.

I run this course in a closed Facebook group, with both recorded videos and regular weekly zoom calls for anyone who is struggling to understand a particular aspect of the teaching that week.

This brand new online class begins on 29th October for 5 weeks. Each week we will have a live (optional) zoom call to check in and share progress, and then I will upload the course material for the following weeks.

Each session introduces a series of skills for that week, which are consolidated into a weekly project - each of them practical, gift-able and useful! 

• Week 1: Get to know your machine - threading, tension and more, sewing in a straight line - make a pincushion
• Week 2: Sewing curves - make a padded heart decoration
• Week 3: Seaming and edging techniques - make a french seamed cushion cover
• Week 4: Applique and bias binding - make your own bunting
• Week 5: Inserting a lining into a 3D Object - make a mug cosy

I will teach this course a maximum of 6 times a year - and after this launch the next opportunity won't be until 2020 - so if you've ever want to master your machine, bite the bullet and join us today! Next year the price will go up too - so grab it at the discounted rate while you can :)

A comprehensive foundational sewing course, 65 video lessons, one year access and live support as you go for £85 - what's not to love!? You can book yourself on here

Here are some of the things that past students have made as a result of being on this course:

Come and join us!  It will be so much fun :)

​We have found ourselves in challenging time!  Staying at home, distanced from loved ones, and waiting for a storm to pass...  

There is so much positive talk about of coming back together into our communities when all this is over... of street parties and picnics and spending time together in celebration and remembrance, and what better way to focus on that happy outcome than to prepare the party decorations whilst we are all in hibernation!  

After all, what is a street party without a few hundred bunting flags!

This is comprehensive tutorial for making bunting - something I run as part of my Back to Basics: beginners sewing course and its a super project for getting your hand back into sewing or for those just starting out! Plus it's brilliant scrap buster for your bits and bobs or up-cycled materials! 

​You can view the video tutorial below and download the equipment list and pattern shape for FREE from my shop here. 
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This was made at the beginning of the UK Lockdown in March 2020 and was designed to give us all a positive focus ... Don't forget to tag me in your makes #isewlationbuntingchallenge - I'd love to see what you come up with!
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